Warp speed?

[wightegi]

Did you check out the price of genuine Suzuki discs ?

[Data]

Well I finally got around to replacing the dodgy offside disc with the (EBC?) ebay replacement. Braking nice and smooth again now. Just for interest I put the one i'd taken off against my window but couldn't see any distortion or warping, so as you say Data, the distortion must be pretty small.
I only replaced one side so have a spare in the cupboard now. Oh, and the wheel bearings both sides have seals which face outside and can be refilled. I didn't bother because they both seemed pretty smooth and well lubed.

Excellent 2wheels! You really need plate glass to check for disc run out if doing it that way. But most disc run out is very minor usually but really makes itself felt doesn't it...lol. By the time we used to put them on a lathe and turned them down the hourly rate was rising and we charge for wear and tear on the lathe tools too. So doing as you have just done is by far the best way. Glad the bearings are ok.

[2wheelover51]

Wightegi,
Wemoto want £94 each for what they say are original Suzuki front discs and £45 for pattern.
These were advertised as EBC, which are pretty good replacements. I know EBC are, or were made in the UK at one time but they're probably made in China as well these days.
You pays your money, as they say..

[2wheelover51]

Data, I was surprised how quickly the job was done (1 hour tops) the only bugbear being someone had used blue locktite on the disc bolts and one bolt was a bit difficult, but the Burgman wheel spindle design means you don't have to juggle the wheel getting 2 spacers in, as I'm sure you know. Test ride showed new disc was running cooler than its opposite number (probably still has traces of temporary corrosion inhibitor) but neither were hot, and the wheel rotates freely now with no sticktion. So much nicer to ride without that judder...

[wightegi]

Are you supposed to use thread lock ,I did on my Suzi GS500 ,the Wemoto disc for that was £154 and the Suzuki one was £62 .

[2wheelover51]

Not sure if Suzuki stipulate threadlock or not, but as a DIY'er of many years I hate the stuff. I find it's more likely to cause a bolt to shear. I actually wire brushed it off and put some copperease on them. If I'm worried about a nut or bolt coming loose I put a little Bostick on the threads before I tighten. I find contact adhesive stops them backing off but doesn't set, which even "non-setting" Locktite will do, over time.

[Data]

Yes, it's fairly normal to put some threadlock compound on the disc bolts. Just to make sure. Most come that way from the factory. In reality the threadlock shouldn't cause any issues. The main problem comes when someone puts the wrong threadlock on the work and then overtightens it. Disc bolts should not be super tight, just follow the workshop manual taking note of torque required and what it says about using threadlock and which one, and in some instances some bikes don't require threadlock. It's all down to following the manual. I wouldn't recommend using Copperease on any brake disc bolts.

[2wheelover51]

Thanks Data.
It's probably a bit controversial using lube on nuts and bolts, but on the plus side it does prevent corrosion and allows you to tension the bolt with a bit less torque, so the bolt could be less likely to fail I suppose. I read a study done on the subject done some years ago which was very interesting, comparing torques but not drawing any long-term conclusions.
Working in a large garage or workshop of course it would be good practice to do the work "by the book" to obviate any claims, etc. I probably started doing it many years ago to make sure I could get any rusting nuts and bolts off. I wouldn't use it on any torque critical things like rotor nuts or big end/mains cap bolts, cylinder head bolts, etc.

[iansoady]

I'm not keen on threadlock either but would probably use some low strength loctite on the disc bolts as one coming loose would be pretty uncomfortable... Most torque figures specify dry threads as the actual axial load put on the fastener would be much higher for the same applied torque. Having said that I very rarely use a torque wrench having develeoped reasonable feel over the last 50+ years of working on bikes & cars (not to mention mowing machines).

[2wheelover51]

Yeah same here. Torque wrench only comes out on special occasions..