Silverwing Tyre Pressures
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Silverwing Tyre Pressures
My Silverwing came out of the showroom with Bridgestone Hoops fitted and I have always run them at the Placarded pressures 29 psi front, 36 psi rear. Now I always thought that the twitchiness at the front over white lines and cats eyes etc was due to the nature of the bike, however today I had a new rear tyre fitted and I asked the fitter to check the front. He looked up the pressures in the book and Bridgestone Recommend 36 psi in the front tyre as well. So working on the principle that it's easier to let air out rather than put it in, he put the front tyre up to 36 and I have to say that it has transformed the machine the front end feels much more planted than before and I could not detect any feeling of "tramlining".
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Re: Silverwing Tyre Pressures
What you say seems very strange. I have had my Silverwing coming up to three years now and always run at recommended pressures which are 29lbs front and 33lbs solo and 36lb two up on rear. I've been through the original Bridgestones, and tried Metzeler and Diablo on the rear, the only time i ran the rear at 36lbs as advised by Pirrelli( for the Diablo) it wore out unevenly on the centre, which i put down to over inflated tyre pressure. I don't carry passengers so never ran at higher pressure in rear other than as just said, Iam back on Bridgestones front and rear, just recently as it happens. I would think your problem may be something other than tyre pressures.
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Re: Silverwing Tyre Pressures
Vehicle (bike or car) manufacturers quote pressures often lower than the max pressures the tyre manufacturer quotes - this reflects things like weight of the vehicle, but also what will offer their preferred balance between tyre life (higher pressure = longer life), comfort (lower pressure = softer ride), and grip (lower pressure - more grip).
if its the battleaxe with the M on the side wall which is the newer type then all indication show
always run at 41 lbs cold rear and 33 cold front - check pressure and tire condition before every ride
so i suppose 33 in front is in the middle of your findings, yet i think 41 in rear is a the high end, this is only from searches on the subject, yet below is a good read,
Tyre manufacturers quote maximum COLD tyre inflation pressures for maximum load (knowing that pressures will increase as the tyre warms up), and also a speed rating (as higher speeds will, among other things, heat the tyre to some extent)
Vehicle (bike or car) manufacturers quote pressures often lower than the max pressures the tyre manufacturer quotes - this reflects things like weight of the vehicle, but also what will offer their preferred balance between tyre life (higher pressure = longer life), comfort (lower pressure = softer ride), and grip (lower pressure - more grip).
Tyre wear is usually lowest if inflation pressure is close to tyre manufacturers rated maximum, but handling may be affected, especially for a light load (small solo rider, no luggage)
Tyres rarely burst from excessive pressure. Tyres typically burst because they have been punctured, or because the tyre has failed structurally. This is usually due to excessive flexing of the sidewall leading to breakdown of the structure of the tyre. It is NOT because the flexing has generated heat that has increased the pressure too much. As the tyre rotates, the sidewall goes from flat(ish) at the top of the revolution to bulgy as it meets the road. The heat is generated IN the sidewall.
At higher speeds, tyres flex more (that is, more flexes per second).
At low pressures, or high loads, tyres flex more.
At low speeds, underinflated tyres can survive some flexing, and will heat up a little.
At high speeds underinflated tyres will heat up much more, and will not survive the flexing for long.
Heating effect from underinflation can easily exceed heating effect from ambient, sunlight etc. (except in extreme situations).
Temperature variation at 'cold' may not need to be considered. Ratings are usually at 20 degrees Celsius (whatever that is in F), so unless the ambient variation is sufficient to dramatically alter that, probably don't worry. 0 or 40 might be worth some adjustment. MaxG quoted some numbers he measured.
The 4psi rule is quite handy - if when run for a while the tyre is over 4psi higher pressure than cold, the tyre was underinflated for the load & speed encountered.
if its the battleaxe with the M on the side wall which is the newer type then all indication show
always run at 41 lbs cold rear and 33 cold front - check pressure and tire condition before every ride
so i suppose 33 in front is in the middle of your findings, yet i think 41 in rear is a the high end, this is only from searches on the subject, yet below is a good read,
Tyre manufacturers quote maximum COLD tyre inflation pressures for maximum load (knowing that pressures will increase as the tyre warms up), and also a speed rating (as higher speeds will, among other things, heat the tyre to some extent)
Vehicle (bike or car) manufacturers quote pressures often lower than the max pressures the tyre manufacturer quotes - this reflects things like weight of the vehicle, but also what will offer their preferred balance between tyre life (higher pressure = longer life), comfort (lower pressure = softer ride), and grip (lower pressure - more grip).
Tyre wear is usually lowest if inflation pressure is close to tyre manufacturers rated maximum, but handling may be affected, especially for a light load (small solo rider, no luggage)
Tyres rarely burst from excessive pressure. Tyres typically burst because they have been punctured, or because the tyre has failed structurally. This is usually due to excessive flexing of the sidewall leading to breakdown of the structure of the tyre. It is NOT because the flexing has generated heat that has increased the pressure too much. As the tyre rotates, the sidewall goes from flat(ish) at the top of the revolution to bulgy as it meets the road. The heat is generated IN the sidewall.
At higher speeds, tyres flex more (that is, more flexes per second).
At low pressures, or high loads, tyres flex more.
At low speeds, underinflated tyres can survive some flexing, and will heat up a little.
At high speeds underinflated tyres will heat up much more, and will not survive the flexing for long.
Heating effect from underinflation can easily exceed heating effect from ambient, sunlight etc. (except in extreme situations).
Temperature variation at 'cold' may not need to be considered. Ratings are usually at 20 degrees Celsius (whatever that is in F), so unless the ambient variation is sufficient to dramatically alter that, probably don't worry. 0 or 40 might be worth some adjustment. MaxG quoted some numbers he measured.
The 4psi rule is quite handy - if when run for a while the tyre is over 4psi higher pressure than cold, the tyre was underinflated for the load & speed encountered.
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Re: Silverwing Tyre Pressures
No problems for me running Hoops at Honda's pressures.
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Re: Silverwing Tyre Pressures
Around 40 front and back on my Burg 650, I like a sporty ride,
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