Got my (new?) Helix today and set about cleaning it of engine filth, - it has 30,000 previous miles, silencer appears and sounds NEW with no rust anywhere on it, starting is fine but upon opening throttle vibration is felt all over the bike, I wasn't thinking about doing a lot of tinkering (maybe years ago yes), but may have to as I get a feeling that the vibes are coming from the cvt setup which I feel has been messed with previously, I'm suspicious of loose drive nuts causing the vibration and possibly a worn belt....? Will take it for a short ride tomorrow when something might show up, this was really not the way I wanted to go BUT maybe needs must.

Your thoughts or experience would be appreciated.


Jim

Jaz will be along soon to advise you he is the Helix man...Mr Meldrew had one also for several years he may be able to help.
Lyn.

My intake rubber is unsupported at the moment and is ok, any parts I've found are all from America and reasonably priced - but then stupendious pp charges like $50 added for an intake rubber - no way!
Would like to know what are the std weight rollers? Std. Bando belt = VS 828 22.5 30 ? UK suppliers?
Etc.....whats this 'kinder egg? Never heard of that.

Jim

Hi Jim

These problems are almost certainly down to worn components in the CVT. Old, knackered and glazed clutch shoes cause vibes, as can aged, hardened belts. I would get the belt case off and have a look. Take good care of the rubber gasket though, as they are disproportionately expensive! Less likely, but also worth checking, is for sideways play at the rear wheel. This indicates that your engine hanger bearings are shagged - the parts are cheap, but this is an engine out job. Investigate the CVT first, and see how it goes.

I wouldn't worry too much about the variator unless the drive face is obviously grooved, and the Helix will function pretty much as normal with rollers that looks like pieces of Toblerone (ask me how I know) You may as well replace them if they look worn, though - genuine Honda ones were £10 a set last time I bought some. I use cheap Taiwanese belts off eBay - I once stumped up for a Honda Bando one and it snapped half-way through the duty cycle - and bin them at 15000 miles. Genuine rear clutch shoes are still available - as are 99% of parts - and, again, not massively expensive.

I buy all my stuff at David Silvers, they are knowledgeable and helpful (and they have a Japanese parts book for my Jap domestic market Fusion!); they will get you anything you need, usually to your door in a week. They will even sell you the special holding tool for locking the variator or rear clutch while you undo the nut (part no. 07923-KM-10000) so that you can use a torque wrench to do the nuts up properly & not knacker the crank thread by using an air wrench.

Yours looks an absolute cracker, more pics when you get chance please!

Jimo wrote:My intake rubber is unsupported at the moment and is ok

They are a weak point, both of my bikes are running the US-spec carb brace. This takes the weight of the carb and negates the need to replace the inlet manifold every few years. These are the part numbers:

1 x 16119KS4840 (plate comp)
1 x 12303KS4841 (plate comp)
1 x 16121KS4840 (collar)
1 x 19034MB3000 (grommet)
2 x 957010601200 (bolt)

I got them from Silvers:

https://www.davidsilverspares.co.uk/

The carb brace is parts 28, 29, 30, 31 and 32 in this diagram:

Jimo wrote:My intake rubber is unsupported at the moment and is ok, any parts I've found are all from America and reasonably priced - but then stupendious pp charges like $50 added for an intake rubber - no way!
Would like to know what are the std weight rollers? Std. Bando belt = VS 828 22.5 30 ? UK suppliers?
Etc.....whats this 'kinder egg? Never heard of that.

Jim

Jim the standard weights are 25grams each.
I found 21 gram works well.
You do not need to buy honda ones. Any will do just measure width and diameter.
As far as the manifold rubbers google cn250 on Aliexpress no freight and they work just fine.Only cost a couple of bucks

Jaz dear man, Thanks for the info, great stuff! The bike came to me yesterday and fuel was down to the last segment on the gauge which may have been something to do with the vibration, this morning I filled it with Shell V Power which has a very low ethanol content, on riding back home the vibrations were gone and she was smooth as silk which means I can delay tearing it apart immediately but it's added to my to-do list for the future, another good thing is that the bike rides straight as a rule without any falling tendency to either side, this morning's post bought me the Cyclepedia Service Manual for the Helix, priced around £47 ($58.72) its the best yet with 632 x almost A4 pages of superb hands-on photographs with accompanying instructions. I feel inclined to get new parts in the meantime like Clutch assembly, belt, rollers, intake rubber, et al and then put the Helix on my lift platform to work on because age infirmaties preclude bending or working on the floor like I once used to. Close inspection shows that the front body panels have been removed at some time and not properly reassembled as they are looser than I remember them and the headlight is slightly skewed in its nacelle, small details that give away a bit of hidden history but irritating, I would include photos but I know they are too large, I use an iPad for most things but cannot see the mechanics of how to reduce the size of photos and write this at the same time, the photos are on my iPad.

Maxiscootnz, thanks for the info, its good to know and while the books show the operation they don't give the weight of rollers used.



Jim

jaz, you mention David Silvers....I tried on their site (now in US) and no reference to CN250 exists, there must be someone in UK selling Helix parts?
Checked out the tires today, must replace front tire which has cracking on the sidewalls, what do you know about tires?

Jim

Jimo regarding images
http://www.maxi-muppets.co.uk/forum/vie ... ?f=6&t=215
Or use Postimages.org
Might be worth starting a new thread if you have any questions on this subject.