Thanks Funkycowie, I didn't see the PM you sent me until yesterday after I had bought from Taiwan.

Just won a full set of variator tools on eBay at a bargain price and ordered a yellow Malossi spring so hopefully next weekend I can fit all the parts, check my drive belt and see how things improve. Been out on my touring bike today which makes me realise how sluggish the Mk3 is until you wind it up.

Pukmeister wrote: ↑Fri Aug 24, 2018 8:57 am What benefit does changing the contra spring give ??

It's what determines the amount of "downshift" that happens in the torque driver assembly, when you dive the bike full throttle for overtaking, etc. A stiffer spring will increase the RPM change. In my case, going from stock contrast spring to a Malossi Yellow (+7%) added about 300 RPM when "downshifting".

Thanks SkuTorr, thats the best explanation I have heard and makes perfect sense.

Hopefully with 16 gram Dr Pulley sliding weights and new sliders plus a yellow malossi spring I should get what I would like from the bottom end performance. I enjoy the practicality and fun of my Tmax and top speed is fine but I really miss the instant hit my old R1 had from opening the throttle, I know a maxi scooter can't compare to a full on litre sportsbike but a bit more zip will be most welcome.

Well, I fitted the 16gr Dr Pulley weights, new plastic sliders and the yellow contra spring. Never having had a Tmax in bits before it was a little learning curve. The recent belt was only slightly worn at 31.7mm but the original variator weights were shot, with flat and irregular faces on many of them. I gave everything a clean to remove dust etc, rebuilt and went for a rush-hour test ride. The bike felt slightly faster, hard to tell yet, but acceleration and deceleration were smoother than ever which is a great start. Tomorrows early morning commute will be the first chance to open her up properly on the motorway slip road and see if there is improvement.

......and the Jury returns its final verdict.....

Money and time very well spent, this is how the Mk3 Tmax should have left the factory. It's like a different bike now.

Case dismissed M'lud.

Pukmeister wrote: ↑Tue Sep 04, 2018 5:07 am ......and the Jury returns its final verdict.....

Money and time very well spent, this is how the Mk3 Tmax should have left the factory. It's like a different bike now.

Case dismissed M'lud.

Yes, it does make a huge difference. Not quite sure why, but Yamaha made sure that the mk3 performed very well at high speeds but it was stodgy round town, but the DrPulley sliders fix that! On the mk4 and its extra 30cc, Yamaha put more effort in lower speed acceleration and it does pull much better at low speeds, though is no better than the mk3 at high speeds. On the other hand, the mk6 feels seriously quick - like its got another 100cc - even completely standard, so I don't think I'll bother with DrPulley bits for now! There again, as the standard rollers will wear out, it maybe worth replacing them with DrPulley ones when the belt is replaced at 12k miles.
Anyway - enjoy!

SkuTorr wrote: ↑Sat Jul 28, 2018 6:33 pm Along the same line, I finally replaced my original drive belt at 22,000 miles (!) and while I was in there inspected everything. All 4 pulley halves were pristine, no wear or scoring. The Dr. pulley Sliders, which now had over 16,000 miles on them had essentially NO WEAR at all. Now that's a product I like!

I upgraded my contra spring to a Malossi "yellow" one, 7% stiffer,
https://scooterpartsco.com/malossi/01-m ... d017976aff

along with the Malossi Torsion Controller.
https://scooterpartsco.com/malossi/01-m ... d017976aff

"Downshifts" at full throttle now show an RPM increase of 1,000 VS the 700 stock. Nice increase in mid-range overtaking, and the new Controller is SMOOTH!

Skutor what condition was the belt? I have done 25,000 miles so think it,s due for a change. Used to have a maxsym 400 and changed the belt at 19,000 the old belt was hardly worn, like new!

The belt "looked" fine, was a bit glazed and worn a measurable amount but nothing that would have evinced failure anytime soon. It was still almost DOUBLE the Yamaha recommended interval..

I believe the tolerance that Yamaha suggest is a working tolerance only, you will notice a drop in performance with just 0.5mm difference and this is the point I always changed my belt which also was roughly 12k miles. I had deliberately let a belt run for 18k miles and hated the loss as I demand high performance all the time. The belt in all circumstances have looked fine

It's not how it might fail or show signs of odd wear or damage, Yamaha's R&D or manufacturing take care of that, it's purely down to literal wear and maintaining high performance.

Thanks for that tip, my belt has done 8000 miles and has worn by 0.3mm, when it gets to 12,000 miles I will fit a new one.

20,000Km is the replacement figure in the factory manual which is about 12,000 miles so your advice makes good sense.

I just upgraded my Mk3 headlight wiring to dual-bulb (via an NC relay for the left dip filament feed triggered off high beam) so it switches off left dipped when main beam is on to prevent melting the headlamp. What a difference in seeing/being seen and no evidence of light scatter at all so should pass the MOT.