Silly questions?

[Andym]

Hello,

Apologies if these questions are answered elsewhere. I'm pretty much at the point of going to a CVT maxi scooter after 30 years of manual motorcycles. With the exception of a 50cc Peugeot I hired in Magaluf last century (and thankfully never got brethalysed) the closest I've been is the semi-manual SuperCub that's so much fun it's convinced me to swap. Riding will be touring and Sunday morning chill-out rides.

Question 1: What's the technique with two brake levers. I tend to think front, then rear, then both, but also hear you should start with the rear to "squat" a scooter?

Question 2: Do tyres make a noticeable difference. With the bikes I've usually removed the OE fit Brazilian cross-ply rubbish (Dunaplop Skidmasters and the like) on day 1 while applying the ACF-50, fitting a mud guard extension etc. and run it on good rubber all the time. If I sell after a few years I have been known to re-fit the OE rubbish. Something to plan or not worth it?

Thanks

Andy

[MrGrumpy]

There are normally no such things as silly questions - though there plenty of silly answers out there! In the case of questions such as this, it can be a matter of personal preference - I can't abide certain welll regarded model of tyre, but others think they are great!
Q1 - Personally I normally use both together. I don't think the idea of using the rear first to squat the scooter makes any sense. Most braking effort is supplied by the front, so that's the important one, but use of the rear adds effort and should keep the rear under control.
Q2 - Yes, tyres make a huge difference to the riding experience. There are rubbish tyres out there, though possibly not as many or as rubbish as they used to be! I think most decent brands tend to fit decent OE tyres, but if you buy Chinese (rather than Taiwanese) who knows? I remember the horrors of Vee-Rubber, or a particularly lethal set of Avons I once bought for a Tmax! I recently experimented with a pair of Anlas, which weren't actually bad, but weren't good either. So I normally stick to the top brands for scoots - Michelin, Bridgestone, Dunlop, Metzeler, maybe Pirellii.

[roadster]

Before considering the best braking technique it is important to realize that different machines that have two front callipers sometimes link them to the rear in different ways. Anything above 125 will also have ABS. I usually find ( compared to sports bikes for example ) the initial bite can be disappointing so I generally fit some EBC sintered pads at least on the calliper operated by the right hand lever. I wouldn't offer a generalized opinion on exact technique because each machine behaves differently, especially because automatic transmissions vary in the way they release when the throttle is closed and weight distribution can also vary. As an experienced rider you will no doubt adapt quickly to the characteristics of whatever you choose to buy.

Tyre wise I would only worry about the cheapest Chinese ones. But if you are an all weather type this forum might point you to what works best on wet city streets.

[MrGrumpy]

Yes, its not unknown for scoots to have linked brakes, so this might affect which levers to pull! I've never ridden one with linked brakes - Yamaha have never fitted them AFAIK.

[Data]

As an ex-part time DOT motorcycle instructor we always taught use of both brakes together especially if stopping quickly. As above, linked brakes can slightly alter how you brake regarding lever pressure used during normal riding. If slowing substantially use of both brakes is expected during riding tests and during advanced riding tests but with some nod to using just a front or rear when it's safe to do so at slower speeds on dry roads. Rear brake only is frowned upon when any real stopping power is needed as it's the best way to come off your bike, depending on road condition. Use of both brakes also reduces stress on forks and head bearings and reduces tyre wear on just one wheel.

[poldark]

Maybe only applies to the ones I have ridden/ride, but there's a fair amount of engine/transmission braking with throttle roll off.

So for the vast majority of riding, with normal forward visibility and planning, the rear is all that's needed.

I always cover both levers continuously (ex-London commuter!) so if required in emergency situation it's both to stop, I'll try the easy squeeze initially on front before full hard (if I remember in the panic!)

Big recommendation for Dunlop ScootSmart tyres, lovely rounded profile so can transform turn-in compared to some. Michelin City Grip are also an easy recommendation.

[MrGrumpy]

Maybe only applies to the ones I have ridden/ride, but there's a fair amount of engine/transmission braking with throttle roll off.


Michelin City Grip are also an easy recommendation.

The amount of engine braking does vary from scoot to scoot - some have very little, some a lot, Tmax in between. City Grips? The tyre I really hate! No feel....

[poldark]

I spent 7 years trying to wear out City Grips on my X9 250 Evo, gave up and swapped to the ScootSmart and it felt like an R6.

I know there's City Grip 2 now, perhaps dull but Michelin are reliable and hard wearing for sure.

[Andym]

Thank You.

Seems the brakes are just part getting used to it. At least the SuperCub has trained me not to grab a big handful of left every time I'm about to stop!

Tyres I'm going to need to think about. Probably see what Honda fit OE and if they are horrible Brazilian Bridgestones get rid. I ride all year so it's good there is so much choice. No winter tyres for Cubs was a bit disappointing, but then it weighs nothing so the basic knobbly looking Heidenaus work well enough. The Guzzi I'm selling wasn't great either a lot of stuff labelled "classic" by which they meant "sunny Sundays".

Cheers

Andy

[MrGrumpy]

I'd be very surprised if Honda fit some sort of 3rd rate tyres as OE (what scoot are you thinking of btw?). I'd expect some pretty well top of the range stuff. Though of course there can be differences between the, for example, Bridgestone SC2s that come from Japan on a Tmax, and the SC2s you buy in the UK.