HONDA HELIX PROJECT HAS LANDED !

[Pandrop]

The part Green/part Red indicator signifies ‘oil change’ time and looks in the process of turning Red, as you’ve changed the oils you turn the indicator back to Green by inserting ign key into small slot nearby and below.
When you get your new keys this will take 1/2 second to do.

It looks as if you have buttons where TRIP and MPH/Kph are - so that’s ok! - but if I’m wrong I’ve made a set for you.

Good luck with the project Andrew, I feel sure you’ll sort it.


Jim

Hi Jim, great, thanks for that info, as soon as the lock set arrives ill get that sorted.

[Pandrop]

What you should do if you have not already is obtain a service manual. These are available free on the web or you can view on an American site called The Honda helix discussion board . Lots of info on this site as it is a forum and dedicated to this ugly but awesome scoot. The plastics are not that hard to remove if you have the time . Better still some passion. You are lucky to have a early one as i think they are a better build quality. Yours has the cast steel rims which are superior to the later alloy ones. Far more durable. This scoot is worthy of a restoration. What year of manufacture does it state on the registration papers? From the vin number stamped on a tag under the fuel tank i have the codes to explain the build details color year factory etc . Its the vintage take on what the OBD2 scanners will give you on a modern bike if you care to love your ride. Good luck take your time keep it coming and stay safe.

Cheers for the heads -up , ill definately check that out . I have some ideas re: colours etc and yes it has steelies , sturdy but a bugger to strip and re-paint

[Pandrop]

So far:
I got the tyres sorted this morning and stripped the front wheel back to metal and will paint it this avo.
I'll be ordering new wheel bearings this evo.

The front brakes are shot so i'll strip the caliper this week and order a new braided hose, seal kit for the MC , pads and fluids and re-assemble the whole lot next week.

I took the rust off the exhaust and sprayed it with high temp paint.

Ill slowly work my way backwards as parts arrive ( filters etc) and do the belt and clutch last (I think ) unless I come across any more nasty surprises like the over-tightened oil drain bolt which had cracked the leading edge of the threads , however thats cold weld repair that I can do at home .

Ill add some photos as I go along.

[Jimo]

Cracked l/e of drain plug threads! ? Tell me more..... I’ve got to investigate where my oil has leaked from since I re-filled it months ago.

In preparation of rebuild of my engine by local shop I’m thinking to remove as much plastics as I can before hand, apart from saving a few pence it should ensure that no lugs get broken on the new parts I already fitted.

Jim

[Jimo]

Here’s a nice one just up, in Wolverhampton! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303673014302

Looks well cared for and ready for road with V5!

Jim?

That's Bob (whitty)'s old one. Don't know the current owner, but it was a cracker when Bob had it.

Another with the two buttons missing!......it’s got me thinking (about a swop) !
But I’ve already spent a bomb on mine.....no - two bombs!

Jim

[Pandrop]

Cracked l/e of drain plug threads! ? Tell me more..... I’ve got to investigate where my oil has leaked from since I re-filled it months ago.

In preparation of rebuild of my engine by local shop I’m thinking to remove as much plastics as I can before hand, apart from saving a few pence it should ensure that no lugs get broken on the new parts I already fitted.

Jim

Yes I actually had to use a long extension bar to loosen it off and as the words " I cant believe that this hasnt cracked the casing " came out of my mouth a small part of the leading edge of the thread dropped into the oil tray. With a good clean up and some JB Weld I reckon its reasonably easy to fix as the actual case isnt cracked and the rest of the thread is solid, but Ive also ordered some rubber seals to help apply a better seal once ive done the repair.

I think removing the lower panels makes sense Jim, just for your peace of mind.

[Jimo]

Mirrors for you Andrew.......https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Honda-C ... SwZjxfU6Ei

And they’re in Yorkshire!

Jim

[Pandrop]

Mirrors for you Andrew.......https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fits-Honda-C ... SwZjxfU6Ei

And they’re in Yorkshire!

Jim

Not just Yorkshire Jim....Sunny Yorkshire !

Cheers Jim

[Rocketman122]

In 2001 i worked for ups and used a ch/freeway 250.similar to this scooter just updated. I really hated to ride it. Acceleration was to slow. Rear brake was a foot pedal which is a huge mistake and safety issue. When youre driving in the rain and you feel grip is losing by instinct you want to place both feet on the asphalt to stabilize like training wheels. You want to use rhe rear brakes but cant since its a pedal. I know there were a few who moved theirs to the handlebar by custom work.

We also had a model called spazio here thats similar to yours

Curious to read this post on updates. Try logging with pictures and then make a book with logging info inside

[brennain1]

Good luck with this, I’ve always fancied one so shall be following this thread with interest.