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Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:14 am
by pikey
Give transmission a tap can shake some loose

Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 10:36 am
by Data
One of these could help...!!... :lol:
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Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:18 am
by pikey
Yes always wash your hands after messing with you scooter or you get black fingers marks on your bacon sandwich :kiss: :kiss:

Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 11:28 am
by Ralph
Don't care how black my finger are I would still eat the pig buttie.

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Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:21 pm
by Data
You guys have bacon sandwiches??? :o I don't have any!!!... :cry:

Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2013 2:23 pm
by Data
Halfabusa, I've pm'd you in case you haven't seen it! ;)

Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 11:37 am
by halfabusa
Just to report back on the progress of this subject, i went out to get some fuel and once the engine got up to working temperature i pulled over to try out Data's suggestion of revving it while on brakes. I did that three times up to 4500 rpm as suggested, and pulled over...

In one word: WOW! what a difference it made! Many thanks for the tip Data! The bike now shows absolutely NO judder when moving off from stationary, and even the slow speed judder that i mentioned after clutch engages the gear has gone. It's pleasantly surprising how smooth the ride become, no lurching while gear engages, no judder, no vibration. Fantastic!

On another note, i think the engine is still running in even at 3000 miles, because my fuel economy keeps improving all the time. I managed 63mpg today when i filled it up. Impressive for london traffic :)

Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 1:46 pm
by pikey
Keep up with more throttle on take off should keep it clear

Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2013 4:39 pm
by victor
rip it open like you've nicked it

Re: Clutch biting point

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2013 9:15 am
by Data
That'a great news Halfa, nice to know you had success. The dust will build up again so you may have to do it again soon. Only a full clean out and deglaze will cure it properly (it should last a long time then before it needs doing again) but it's nice to know you can do the revvy thing a few times and clear it. I'll let you know when I can meet with you to sort it with some spanners, if you would still like me to do that. It's really easy. On the note about your engine still running in: you are quite right! The Burgman takes at least 4k for the engine conforming to finish. Sometimes longer if it's used for shorter trips. Mine just keeps getting better and better and more powerful. I genuinely have a problem trying to hold it down to 70mph when on the motorways now. It's loosened nicely and wants to go faster and faster. I find I'm constantly having to slow the bike by easing off to avoid speeding. Another thing I've found is that at 70mph it is genuinely not struggling or feeling stressed, ever, even with a passenger! To start with when it just had 2000 miles on the clock it sounded more stressed and more throttle was needed as she still felt much tighter at that speed. I've stuck to semi synthetic oil for now to aid the conforming but that will be changed for fully snythetic at 4k in about 4 weeks. Last year my miles were much less than I would normally cover due to that injury I've had but this year the miles will go through the roof with luck...mucho fun ahead! ;)