ACF50 was originally an aviation product used to protect aluminium.
It is designed to skin over and repair itself in a non drying/ surface tension techy kind of way. It is expensive - buying it neat along with a "pump up" dispenser is much more economical than a propellant spray can. It doesn't wash off easily or rinse off like fs365 and doesn't dry out as readily as waxoyl but it does look dirty fairly quickly.
I've seen good results on aircraft. I like it, I'd be interested to hear how effective it has been on a scooter application long term.

Fs365 is cheaper but rinses off so you need more and must wash the bike and reapply constantly (no good for internal sections.

I used waxoyl to protect the internal sections of the ladder frame chassis the first car I made and I wasn't overly impressed in extreme heat (abroad) it pooled at the lowest points and then the thinner areas dried and flaked off. After that I galvanised them instead which did the trick. Some of the problemI may have been my application of the stuff though, it isn't easy to get an even spray inside long narrow box sections.

Pretty much everybody on here will know without me saying it but I'll say it anyway. I heard somebody the other day recommending wd40 to protect/rustproof. Wd40 is an oil in the same way that soap is an oil- great for getting in behind muck and as a solvent but water will rinse it away and it will take protective layers of old oil/grease with it.

ACF50 everytime at £15 a tin it not cheap but it does go a long way. A word of caution though
don't get it anywhere near your brake pads or clutch.I've found the best way to do it is to put
scoot on main stand with a plastic sheet under it strip the bodywork off and cover the front and
rear wheels to protect the brakes.Place the can in a bowl of hot water to warm the contents
[this helps atomize it] shake, hold about a foot away and away you go no need to be to particular as
it creeps everywhere. Mop the dropings up off the sheet with a rag you can use this to clean and
treat the wheels after. I put this rag in a plastic bag to be used to treat the wheels, front forks
stand etc. at a later date. Brakes and brake calipers I do with a small paint brush and a 50/50
mix of ACF50 and Waxoil this stops in creeping as much and it stays in place longer on the very
exposed area.When ever I do any work on the scoot before I replace anything I always treat every
screw nut and bolt after four year totally rust free. See my post in garage section [Doesn't look
the same with her cloths off]

Meldrew wrote:I've never tried ACF50 because I've used SDoc100 Anti-Corrosion and Motorex Protect and Shine in winter for years now and they both work well on exposed alloy and paintwork. I did try FS365 a few years ago and didn't like it at all, the large spray bottle is too big to use to spray underneath the scooter and didn't work much better in a pump up garden sprayer.

Likewise never tried ACF50 but I use S100 (same as SDoc100?) . My bikes are in a concrete garage and I have a problem not so much with the chrome but the bright ally bits like rocker covers which fur up. S100 sprayed on a J cloth and then wiped over leaves a film which stays there until it's washed off with hot soapy water. Never tried it on paintwork other than the fork legs. After 1.1/2 winters my bike still looks like new. Brightwork looks a bit naff though when it's waxed up.

Look, if you are bone idle like me, you can always get these people to clean and apply ACF50 to your scoot for £60

http://www.allyearbiker.co.uk/

I've had the Tmax done twice. No idea how the rustproofing bit works, but it don't half make your scoot look like its just come out of the showroom! And the finish seems to last as well - even months afterwards if you give it a quick rinse, it still gleams at you!

Wow...loads of replies! Thanks guys. I'm sifting through them now. I like the idea of someone doing all the work so Grumpy's idea seems a good one. They seem thorough. But then, I've always liked the idea of doing stuff myself and never had the time to do it unless it's been absolutely necessary. I've always been too busy touching up other peoples oily bits! So, I'll see. Watch this space!

The thing with DIY application of ACF50 is it's tricky with simple aerosol to get decent coverage, or if you do manage it you've used/wasted loads of it.

AllYearBiker has Pro set-up with compressor and air gun (perhaps you have too?) so manages to get a fine atomised mist so coverage is great. Also they do a very good clean up beforehand, so underneath the ACF50 all is sparkly shiney shiney.

Definitely get my vote for decent value and a worthwhile investment (pre-Winter) for your pride and joy.

MrGrumpy wrote:Look, if you are bone idle like me, you can always get these people to clean and apply ACF50 to your scoot for £60

http://www.allyearbiker.co.uk/

I've had the Tmax done twice. No idea how the rustproofing bit works, but it don't half make your scoot look like its just come out of the showroom! And the finish seems to last as well - even months afterwards if you give it a quick rinse, it still gleams at you!

Thanks for that. Just booked for them to come out and sort my new Vespa out this weekend.

Tell them you want inside cavities done under the floor

pikey wrote:Tell them you want inside cavities done under the floor

Ooh-er!!

Vimesy wrote:

MrGrumpy wrote:Look, if you are bone idle like me, you can always get these people to clean and apply ACF50 to your scoot for £60

http://www.allyearbiker.co.uk/

I've had the Tmax done twice. No idea how the rustproofing bit works, but it don't half make your scoot look like its just come out of the showroom! And the finish seems to last as well - even months afterwards if you give it a quick rinse, it still gleams at you!

Thanks for that. Just booked for them to come out and sort my new Vespa out this weekend.

Have to check the weather though....depending on where you are, the temperature may not rise much above 0C and the whole cleaning process can get awkward below 4C