Running in the TMax - 48mph

[Data]

Indeed Mr Cobbler. Especially if it's an eCVT such as in the Burgman 650's. I had two of them that had suffered at the hands of an idiot who had 'motomanned' them both from zero miles. Both bikes broke their tranny belts at 35 & 45,000 miles respectively due to the metal belts overheating due to the wrong running in procedure. This also generally takes out the gearbox bearings too! So you must replace them as it's too risky not to do so.

[Data]

not at all Data, very interesting.

Oh good! Would you like me to go on a bit more (well...a lot more, you know I can ) about the metallurgical chemical process that has to occur to pistons, rings & cylinders in every engine during running in? And...how motoman done incorrectly can prevent that from happening, leading to premature engine wear & piston ring breakages!! I can you know....but even you would go to sleep!

[StephenC]

Dunno about all this stuff. I'm just keeping the X360 at 50mph or under for the first 300km....

[horobags]

not at all Data, very interesting.

Oh good! Would you like me to go on a bit more (well...a lot more, you know I can ) about the metallurgical chemical process that has to occur to pistons, rings & cylinders in every engine during running in? And...how motoman done incorrectly can prevent that from happening, leading to premature engine wear & piston ring breakages!! I can you know....but even you would go to sleep!

[DTO]

Hello Animal, yes 48mph can be a bit boring, but remember to vary the load & engine speed to actually make the engine do some work. Avoid fixed throttle cruising for more than half a minute or so to begin with.

I've tech'ed on most bikes & many scooters but not done much on any of the T-max bikes. If it has nikasil coated cylinder bores (I don't know if it has) I'd recommend avoiding any attempt at a fast run in. The coating is only 80-180pu in thickness & you could end up severely damaging the coating. This damage can show up very early on in the bikes life too so sticking to the "by the book" method for road use is a good idea. I have had bikes in the workshop with damaged pistons & cylinders after an owner has tried the motoman method of running in. The nikasil was completely gone from one area in the cylinder causing severe damage that wasn't covered under warranty. Owner wasn't happy as you can imagine but it was clear he had abused the bike, which later he admitted. The big issue here is folks often misinterpret how to carryout motoman. You also need to know that your motor is suitable for that type of run in method. It takes skill & knowledge to do it correctly. Even then it can shorten the life of the motor.

Anyway, enjoy your bike & post often with your exploits!

T-max has ceramic coated cylinder linings so don’t know what that means in regards to running in ?

[Data]

Hi DTO, yes as you likely know ceramic is quite a different coating to Nikasil, but similar precautions will be needed during running in. The reason Yamaha ask folks to run the bike in at an initial low rpm will be to prevent damage to the ceramic coating. Modem ceramic coatings to internal engine parts are very good, as are Nikasil coatings. Both designed to reduce friction & engine wear. Both not needing as much running in as traditional steel liners with bedding in honing. However, these coatings can still be vulnerable during the running in period. So would always advise following book run in methods.

[DTO]

The technology for engine’s is amazing. , Shame we have to move to electric and start all over again !
Most of the Yamaha smaller scooters & motorcycles. Now use the DiASiL cylinders ( Die-cast Aluminium Silicon ) These seem very robust .

[Tartan Cobbler]

Cars, bikes, buses aircraft etc anything with and engine/ differential/ gearbox/ axle needs an element of mechanical sympathy NOT JUST for THE ENGINE'S benefit
Although the move to electric people seem to think running in is not needed I personally would take it easy for a while so all components get used to running together.
I may be totally wrong and will be happy to be corrected

[Data]

You are not wrong Tartan. All moving parts need some degree of work hardening, especially the transfer gears that deliver the power from the motor through the gearbox to the wheels. Then of course there's the tyres, brakes & discs. Mostly though it's the actual motor folks should concentrate on with an ice engine vehicle. Look after that by following the run in rules & everything else will be fine.

[tmaxrobbo]

I always found as long as you didn't load it up too much or thrash it they ran in well . Used to get 60-70 mph running in after a gentle warm up , never used any oil or blew up !