no spark at plug

[steve campbell]

No one has directly mentioned the kill switch except by inference, so its definitely worth bypassing that before looking for the expensive stuff.

The kill switch is working in that it does not allow the starter to engage.

[steve campbell]

The micro switch on the left brake (Silverwing) is a double action switch which requires to work to complete the starter circult. I made up a wire connector to bypass it. Think its the same point of failure on the Burgmans.

b
hmm that is interesting, it was as I applied the brakes that the engine stopped..it might worth a look at the left brake switch?

[steve campbell]

The micro switch on the left brake (Silverwing) is a double action switch which requires to work to complete the starter circult. I made up a wire connector to bypass it. Think its the same point of failure on the Burgmans.

just reconnected the switch and predicatably the starter doesn't spin when the start button is pressed

when I bridge the connecors the starter would spin on demand

OK coil off (at last) what a PITA

the primary winding reads 2.0 ohms Haynes says 3 to 5

The secondary winding read 21.2 k ohms haynes says 17 to 30 so it seem like the primary winding is at fault

do any gurus know us 2.0 ohms primary is low enough to cause this total lack of spark at the plug?

Thanks for all the help this far

[steve campbell]

coil is off (at last)

Haynes says primary 3 to 5 ohms, mine reads 2.0

Haynes says secondary 17 to 30 k ohms.minreads 21.2k

Would 2 on the primary be too little to provide any spark at the plug?

[Andym]

Any signs of heat?

2 Ohms is pretty low, not much inductance available in what's pretty much just a length of wire. If it's wrong it's shorted to itself. It's not an impossibly low number though, Haynes can only publish what they measured and none of us own a calibrated meter. A nice open or dead short is a much clearer answer.

This is where an old school dealer would make all the difference. Take the one they want to sell you off the shelf and measure it. 2 OHMs you don't buy it, 4 you do. Not typically a current option though. I wonder what the returns policy is at Wemoto etc?

Personally, given you agree with Haynes on half the numbers I'd order one.

Andy

[steve campbell]

Posted this earlier but ir didn't show...let's try again

OK coil off (at last) what a PITA

the primary winding reads 2.0 ohms Haynes says 3 to 5

The secondary winding read 21.2 k ohms haynes says 17 to 30 so it seem like the primary winding is at fault

do any gurus know us 2.0 ohms primary is low enough to cause this total lack of spark at the plug?

Thanks for all the help this far

[steve campbell]

Any signs of heat?

2 Ohms is pretty low, not much inductance available in what's pretty much just a length of wire. If it's wrong it's shorted to itself. It's not an impossibly low number though, Haynes can only publish what they measured and none of us own a calibrated meter. A nice open or dead short is a much clearer answer.

This is where an old school dealer would make all the difference. Take the one they want to sell you off the shelf and measure it. 2 OHMs you don't buy it, 4 you do. Not typically a current option though. I wonder what the returns policy is at Wemoto etc?

Personally, given you agree with Haynes on half the numbers I'd order one.

Andy

Agreed a dead short woul d have given me more confidence but I've ordered one now and fingers crossed that'll sort it out

You may have guessed I'm nuts, bolts and bearing guy and not an amps ohms an Ohmygoodness this is all greek to me type

[Dave Weller]

Do they fit a centre stand switch on the 400 models these days. On the B650 the switch corrodes and the scoot will not run properly stays in first gear.
My K9 Burgman did not have this safety switch, but the health and safety rules may have made them fit it to later models to stop people riding off with the stand down.

[capitano]

2 Ohms is pretty low, not much inductance available in what's pretty much just a length of wire. If it's wrong it's shorted to itself. It's not an impossibly low number though, Haynes can only publish what they measured and none of us own a calibrated meter. A nice open or dead short is a much clearer answer.

I do, an expensive one to buy, that gets calibrated every year to keep the conditions of my industry regulation as an electrician.

On cheap multimeters I'd consider 2 ohms to be in the same order of magnitude as 3-4 ohms.

[steve campbell]

2 Ohms is pretty low, not much inductance available in what's pretty much just a length of wire. If it's wrong it's shorted to itself. It's not an impossibly low number though, Haynes can only publish what they measured and none of us own a calibrated meter. A nice open or dead short is a much clearer answer.

I do, an expensive one to buy, that gets calibrated every year to keep the conditions of my industry regulation as an electrician.

On cheap multimeters I'd consider 2 ohms to be in the same order of magnitude as 3-4 ohms.

Mine is a decent quality autosensing min/max multimeter but I am still concenred that even at 2 ohms it should trigger something

your thoughts are most welcome, electrics are not my strong suit