Rather annoyingly cleaning the sensor etc has increased the cutting out problem on idle. Cuts out every time you come to a stop now. So I suppose I'll have to take the throttle body off completely and have a look at it. Is there much involved in removing one of these?

hi , benr might have taken one off, as he has a spare for sale... as far as i can tell from reading its it two parts, prob the main body with the injector on it which seems to be plastic!!! and then the coupling with the throttle cables attached to it, which according to below if you take off the three screw nuts first which should release the throttle cable side to the main body which has injector on it...
anyways more pics here to see what i mean
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksi ... &_from=R40" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

this one shows the complete two halves one half injector plus fuel feeds and returns and the other side with the throttle cable assembly on it (which you should get off first)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PIAGGIO-X9-TH ... 43baf95a07" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

this pic shows without the injector on it and without the fuel feeds, but you get idea of this being attached to inlet and the three screw (bolt) area
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Piaggio-Union ... 43bb64bd9d" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;




what the manual states regarding throttle body:
THE THROTTLE BODY IS A PART WHICH INCLUDES VARIOUS COMPONENTS AND IS USUALLY
SUPPLIED COMPLETE. TO TEST THESE COMPONENTS SEE THE "INJECTION" CHAPTER.
to take off Remove the 3 retaining screws
CAUTION
THE THROTTLE BODY COMES PRE-CALIBRATED. TAMPERING WITH THE THROTTLE STOP
REGISTER IS TO BE ABSOLUTELY AVOIDED. THIS REGISTER HAS BEEN SEALED FOR THIS
PURPOSE. FOR PROBLEMS WITH IDLING SEE THE "INJECTION" CHAPTER.
N.B.
REMOVAL OF THE THROTTLE BODY CAN BE EFFECTED WITH THE MANIFOLD ON OR OFF
THE ENGINE.
Make sure the seal rims on the coupling surfaces
between the manifold-throttle body and manifoldhead
are in good condition.
CAUTION
IF AIR GETS IN IT CAN JEOPARDISE THE OPERATION
OF THE INJECTION SYSTEM, ESPECIALLY
WHEN THE ENGINE IS IDLING.
Make sure the throttle valve and related conduit
are clean.
- Make sure the supplementary air channel managed
by the stepper motor is clean.
N.B.
IF THE THROTTLE BODY IS REPLACED with another one, RESET THE T.P.S. AND ADJUST THE CO%.
ONCE THE ENGINE IS REPAIRED CHECK THE CO% VALUE WHILE IDLING TO MAKE SURE IT

Hi, the first thing i would prob do is, remove the three bolts that hold the throttle cable assembly on to intake, clean up the area and use gasket sealer then reattach, and affix the air filter union, then retry the scoot to see if this was the seal which required attention, as this is the easiest job first, it could have come loose with the throttle movement and vibration, the three bolts go to the plastic body so be careful not to overtighten, let the gasket sealer do its job

Thanks for the info Michael. I just went out and took it off and cleaned it thoroughly. It does indeed have a little IACV (stepper motor) and that is one of the components of the TB. So that's a pain as its obviously glued in there and not a replaceable item. That said I dont recall reading about people have problems with them unlike BMW F800 forums which are full of threads about them, so maybe it isnt an issue with these and its just my bad luck, if it is that?

I've spray the plunger and blown it out quite a few times as it doesn't seem to do much when you turn the ignition on/off and they normally go through a cycle. This is of course all theoretical though and I suppose I'm going to have to get the fault codes read.

I'll put it back together and take it for a test ride in a mo, see if anything has made any difference. EML is still on but that may need resetting or do the 16 cycle thing you mentioned earlier. One of my calipers is binding a bit so I'l sort that out first.

On the plus side the clutch bell made a hell of a difference and I've lost a lot of that bad vibration I was getting.

fingers crossed , the stepper might be more active when engine cold.... putting it back together , resealing the joins could do the trick, benr has one for sale but not sure if complete??? if needed, glad the bell was better, not sure about the 16 cycle thing , i read it in the manual, check the bolts to the inlet manifold are tight as well, while the seats all off, and there was a mention of a pipe that leads to the filter box, somewhere by the injector?? good luck

michaelphillips wrote:fingers crossed , the stepper might be more active when engine cold.... putting it back together , resealing the joins could do the trick, benr has one for sale but not sure if complete??? if needed, glad the bell was better, not sure about the 16 cycle thing , i read it in the manual, check the bolts to the inlet manifold are tight as well, while the seats all off, and there was a mention of a pipe that leads to the filter box, somewhere by the injector?? good luck

Damn. Missed that bit. If i have to take the bloody panel work off again...

you gonna be fine

dont forget http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gilera-Nexus- ... 2c6e942e67" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

has two days left with one bid

Well my brakes are much better but the bike is still cutting out. I'd like to buy Bens TB bt dont know if you can just put another TB on or if the are paired to the ECU or suchlike?

BenR wrote:I use the NGK iridium in mine mainly because you don't have to change them (they last 40000miles) but also there's no fade in performance when the bike gets hot. If you need a new throttle body I have a clean spare £30 + P&P.

PM sent. I may as well go for this and see what happens. Reading the thread back through Tmax9 says the EML will clear a soon as the fault is gone. So I'm clearly not getting anywhere with what i'm doing so I may as well start replacing things.