I know this won't be of immediate help but have you thought of getting the
new Haynes manual they do for the Burgman 250 & 400 (all models up to 2011)?

TDC sensor-everybody calls it something different. Crankshaft position sensor, I think Suzuki call it CK sensor or summat like.

On most engines it picks up off the flywheel, in simple terms a sort of magic eye which tells the ignition when to spark. Unfortunately on the Burg it's behind the alternator cover. Because of their close proximity to a moving part (usually flywheel)dirt builds up on the contact point which is usually copper. Not expensive normally but as I said I had a car that wouldn't start, I took the sensor out and just scraped the muck off. It ran fine after that.

Wiki explains it better than I can:-

A crank position sensor is an electronic device used in an internal combustion engine to monitor the position or rotational speed of the crankshaft. This information is used by engine management systems to control ignition system timing and other engine parameters. Before electronic crank sensors were available, the distributor would have to be manually adjusted to a timing mark on the engine.

The crank sensor can be used in combination with a similar camshaft position sensor to monitor the relationship between the pistons and valves in the engine, which is particularly important in engines with variable valve timing. This method is also used to "synchronise" a four stroke engine upon starting, allowing the management system to know when to inject the fuel. It is also commonly used as the primary source for the measurement of engine speed in revolutions per minute.

Common mounting locations include the main crank pulley, the flywheel, the camshaft or on the crankshaft itself. This sensor is the most important sensor in modern day engines. When it fails, there is a chance the engine will not start, or cut out while running.

It all runs in oil on scooters not the same

Drago wrote:I know this won't be of immediate help but have you thought of getting the
new Haynes manual they do for the Burgman 250 & 400 (all models up to 2011)?

I have a soft copy of the workshop manual on my laptop, but as with all other workshop manuals, it's quite complicated to read. If haynes manual is easier with better photos, i would like to buy one.

£16.50 on ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Haynes-Suzuki ... 20ccf6bca3" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

pikey wrote:It all runs in oil on scooters not the same

If you're referring to the crank sensor it definitely does not run in oil. It picks up off the alternator stator.

My stator is in oil on my helix and the pick up

You are wasting your time looking for a spark or for fuel as if the ECU has immobilised the engine you will not get either!
You cannot troubleshoot a modern ECU controlled injected motor like you would an old carb and coil system.
The first thing to eliminate is the devices that cause the engine to either stop, or do not allow a re-start and these are kill switch/tilt switch and immobiliser systems.
As this all started with a jolt to the bike followed by intermittent stalling/poor starting I think you can eliminate coils, pickup sensors and the complicated stuff and look for the simple things likely to be affected by an 'impact' style occurance.
A dealer will plug it into the diagnostic and should know what it is in minutes. If they cannot find anything then it can really only be a pulled/loose connector somewhere.

Back in 2002 I chose the carbed burger 400 over X9 500 that was roughly same price but better spec I chose carb then and even after owning one injected scooter and never having a problem have gone back to older carb engines for basically same reason you dont need a dealer to plug it in as no where to plug it in .Ive spent £50 labour charges at dealers in 10 years and that was in Scotland to have new wheel bearing fitted.Im sure that outweighs any fuel savings that fuel injection gives after saying that its only leisure so dont need one to go to work so understand guys wanting new scooters .

TmaX9 wrote:You are wasting your time looking for a spark or for fuel as if the ECU has immobilised the engine you will not get either!
You cannot troubleshoot a modern ECU controlled injected motor like you would an old carb and coil system.
The first thing to eliminate is the devices that cause the engine to either stop, or do not allow a re-start and these are kill switch/tilt switch and immobiliser systems.
As this all started with a jolt to the bike followed by intermittent stalling/poor starting I think you can eliminate coils, pickup sensors and the complicated stuff and look for the simple things likely to be affected by an 'impact' style occurance.
A dealer will plug it into the diagnostic and should know what it is in minutes. If they cannot find anything then it can really only be a pulled/loose connector somewhere.

It probably will end up at the dealers plugging it in to read the fault anyway, but i am trying to eliminate if i can the hassle of having to push the thing 1,5 miles from home to their doorstep at 6am on a weekday and get charged the earth and the moon for what could be some simple diagnostics.

I'll try a couple of times once my new spark plug arrives, and leave it be until my booking next week, if it doesnt work. If it does work though, i'll be saving over £30 on train fares that i incur during the time its off the road on top of whatever they would charge me for a fix. Plus half an hour each way on my commute.