Mk1 Nexus buyers guide?

[michaelphillips]

cant find any true facts that it helps although people say when fitting new exhaust to do it, trying to think of simple steps, did you check the air filter itself? does your end of exhaust have the baffle in place? if so if you can unscrew the baffle and take out, run bike without it then pop back in, and see what happens...
the LAMBDA VALUE could be distorted manual says to check: If this occurs, carefully check the exhaust system for adequate sealing
spark plug (could be a weak spark or suppressor cap could be loose or not screwed into ht lead correctly.
- valve clearance ( this has to be done i think with engine down at front, so i would leave for now..
- timing system phase ... again leave..
- outlet valves for sealing valve stem seals could be slightly perished but again big job,

if you can live with it, and just check to make sure no exhaust leaks, spark plug etc.. also with regards to the fixing of the air intake it takes 16 cycles of below according to workshop manual before the system resets to normal

In any case, when the fault is no longer present,
the data storage is automatically cleared after 16
cycles of use (cold start, running at regular engine
temperature, stop).

[michaelphillips]

This is what the workshop manual states page 209 cheers

EXHAUST BACKFIRES WHEN DECELERATING
Possible Cause Operation
Presence of faults detected by the self diagnosis Pump relay
H.V. coil
Injector
revolution timing sensor
Air temperature
Coolant temperature.
Atmospheric pressure
Correctness of the parameters Throttle valve position sensor
Stepper
Coolant temperature sensor
Intake air temperature sensor
Intake system sealing (infiltrations) Intake manifold - head
Throttle body - manifold
Intake sleeve
Filter box
Fuel feed (low pressure) Fuel pump
Pressure regulator
Fuel filter
Injector capacity
Exhaust system seal (infiltrations) Manifold - cylinder head
Manifold - muffler
Analyser socket
Muffler welding
Analysis of exhaust fumes before the catalytic converter
Trimmer value adjustment (CO % adjustment)

[Taipan]

cant find any true facts that it helps although people say when fitting new exhaust to do it, trying to think of simple steps, did you check the air filter itself? does your end of exhaust have the baffle in place? if so if you can unscrew the baffle and take out, run bike without it then pop back in, and see what happens...
the LAMBDA VALUE could be distorted manual says to check: If this occurs, carefully check the exhaust system for adequate sealing
spark plug (could be a weak spark or suppressor cap could be loose or not screwed into ht lead correctly.
- valve clearance ( this has to be done i think with engine down at front, so i would leave for now..
- timing system phase ... again leave..
- outlet valves for sealing valve stem seals could be slightly perished but again big job,

if you can live with it, and just check to make sure no exhaust leaks, spark plug etc.. also with regards to the fixing of the air intake it takes 16 cycles of below according to workshop manual before the system resets to normal

In any case, when the fault is no longer present,
the data storage is automatically cleared after 16
cycles of use (cold start, running at regular engine
temperature, stop).

Yes, I'd read the same about disconnecting when fitting a new exhaust. If i cover the end of the exhaust it pressurises the system so I don't think there are any leaks. Interesting about the 16 cycles though as its only had 4 so far.

[Taipan]

This is what the workshop manual states page 209 cheers

EXHAUST BACKFIRES WHEN DECELERATING
Possible Cause Operation
Presence of faults detected by the self diagnosis Pump relay
H.V. coil
Injector
revolution timing sensor
Air temperature
Coolant temperature.
Atmospheric pressure
Correctness of the parameters Throttle valve position sensor
Stepper
Coolant temperature sensor
Intake air temperature sensor
Intake system sealing (infiltrations) Intake manifold - head
Throttle body - manifold
Intake sleeve
Filter box
Fuel feed (low pressure) Fuel pump
Pressure regulator
Fuel filter
Injector capacity
Exhaust system seal (infiltrations) Manifold - cylinder head
Manifold - muffler
Analyser socket
Muffler welding
Analysis of exhaust fumes before the catalytic converter
Trimmer value adjustment (CO % adjustment)

Thanks again for the info. When I put the intake coupling back on I did notice there was a sensor in front of where it was split. I thought afterwards I probably should have cleaned that or at least inspected it. I'll do so when the new coupling arrives.

[michaelphillips]

if you got the seat assembly of for fitting new coupling pipe, have a good ganders at the throttle body assembly it attaches to, on the opposite side will be the injector, make sure all bolts are tight so there are no leaks thru the gaskets etc cheers

[Taipan]

,EG TYRES ARE £100 EACH!!!!!

You weren't kidding was you! Rear is really badly squared off so I thought I'd treat it to new tyre. Ouch! Hunting round the web I finally found Michelin Sc for £75 , but I would have liked Bridgestone Hoop really. Seems very dear for tyres? Oh well, if thats what its got ot be...

[michaelphillips]

,EG TYRES ARE £100 EACH!!!!!

You weren't kidding was you! Rear is really badly squared off so I thought I'd treat it to new tyre. Ouch! Hunting round the web I finally found Michelin Sc for £75 , but I would have liked Bridgestone Hoop really. Seems very dear for tyres? Oh well, if thats what its got ot be...

my battleaxe has been on now for 8000 miles and, and is still not half worn and still round, its a good buy for the £100 i run 2 up for 50% of time, the new battleaxe which has an M at the end of the writing on tyre wall, is the latest version.
tyre pressures are important, i have 36psi rear CHECKED WHEN COLD AND 30psi FRONT WHEN COLD. THE 4 psi rule is if you then check your tyres after a 10 mile run with all the flexing ect the rear should be no more than 40psi and front about 33 psi, which mine are so i know they are correct for my type of rides, if when you measure cold, then hot, adjust your cold to stay within the 4 psi if required, cheers

not sure if fitting your self or know someone, battleaxe th01 rear £86 here

http://www.oponeo.co.uk/moto-tyre-finde ... -r14-tyres" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

or good used tyre £60 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160-60R14-Mot ... 43bac6c488" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

the new BATTLAX SC has been launched for scooters, http://moto.bridgestone.eu/motorcycle-t ... attlax/sc/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Taipan]

Thanks for the links Michael. I'll probably opt for the Battlax as I like Bridgestones as an all weather tyre. I did see that second hand one on ebay but thought it was too dear to be honest. Given their price I'll use this one a bit more before replacing it I think. I'm off to France on the Nexus next week and would have liked a new tyre for the trip but doubt It would get here in time anyway.

[poldark]

Provided you can get there relatively easily (London E3 3JX), make sure to get a quote for supply/fit by Essential Rubber, who also provide 10% extra discount for London Bikers Forum users.

I had Mich Pilot Sport SC rear on the my now departed Burger 650 for under 90 pounds, though that was 18 month ago. I also have to say it was a distinct improvement on Bridgestone TH01R.

Linky

[Taipan]

Ta mate. I'm a member of LB although rarely post. I've emailed Essential for a supply only price.