After being inspired by Halfabusa's post "I managed to change the brake pads!" http://www.maxi-muppets.co.uk/forum/vie ... =5&t=11160 I decided to change the front OEM brake pads on my Citycom, they had a reputation for only being adequate...

It was easy, too easy almost...

I loosened two allen key bolts, unscrewed the two 12mm bolts, released the caliper covers from the disk, took out the allen key bolts, released the old OEM pads, gave it a blow or two, coughed and spluttered abit, undid the brake reservoir, pushed in the calipers, installed new pads, reinstalled allen key bolts, slipped it back onto the disk, re tightened the bolts, removed some brake fluid from reservoir using a Calpol syringe, 4 squeezes of the brake lever, replaced reservoir cover and sat there 15 minutes later feeling smug... However...

When I spin the wheel I can hear the brake pads slightly rubbing and it doesn't spin as 'well' as it used to- is this normal

Have you guys noticed this too after changing your front pads?

I took it for a 22 mile brake break in...

How many "city miles" have you found brake pads need to 'bed in' to a disk

Should I have used a brake cleaner before refitting new pads?

Have I overlooked something

Sincere thanks in advance...

What you can hear is either is most likely to be the pads rubbing on rusty bits of disc. It is quite normal, your new pads are in a slightly different position, all part of bedding in. You can fettle the disc when changing pads but most people don't bother.

Just in case:
check there is no Grit or flakes of rust trapped between the disc and pad
check that your pads are flat against the disc and are secure


22 miles isn't far enough to bed the discs in fully, 100 should see them quiet

Bluebottle wrote:What you can hear is either is most likely to be the pads rubbing on rusty bits of disc. It is quite normal, your new pads are in a slightly different position, all part of bedding in. You can fettle the disc when changing pads but most people don't bother.

Just in case:
check there is no Grit or flakes of rust trapped between the disc and pad
check that your pads are flat against the disc and are secure


22 miles isn't far enough to bed the discs in fully, 100 should see them quiet

As above....nothing to worry about just ride with a little more care for 100miles....

Agree dont forget the new pads are more than double thickness of your old ones, so not much room between them and disc.....though how come a new bike doesnt make those noises ?

If the caliper is a single sided floating job, did you clean and grease the pins and faces on which it moves...?

R1K SU wrote:Agree dont forget the new pads are more than double thickness of your old ones, so not much room between them and disc.....though how come a new bike doesnt make those noises ?

There is no ridge of rust on the discs on a new bike.

Glad to hear i inspired you into some DIY stuff

As others said, wait for a few more miles before worrying as they take time to settle in, however on this occasion mine didn't rub at all after the change...

If however you notice it doesn't get any better, you might end up needing a caliper rebuild which was what happened to me after the last pad change.

My symptoms were that it would start binding as soon as i hit the brakes and the bike felt like brakes were constantly on and when you're used to free movement of the bike when you're off the gas, you'd notice it too that it tries to slow down as if you're holding on to the brakes.

After a while the friction on the pads heated the whole caliper to a degree that it was again free, so after a few miles of riding i wasn't getting any binding, but every cold start meant it would happen again from all over.

That caused the pad life to become much more shortened (4k miles instead of 6k)

Wait for a while more and go to a bike doctor if it doesn't improve

halfabusa wrote:My symptoms were that it would start binding as soon as i hit the brakes and the bike felt like brakes were constantly on and when you're used to free movement of the bike when you're off the gas, you'd notice it too that it tries to slow down as if you're holding on to the brakes.

After a while the friction on the pads heated the whole caliper to a degree that it was again free, so after a few miles of riding i wasn't getting any binding, but every cold start meant it would happen again from all over.

Classic symptoms of a single sided floating caliper sticking.
A quick clean and application of copper grease when it first happened would have done the trick.

gn2 wrote: Classic symptoms of a single sided floating caliper sticking.
A quick clean and application of copper grease when it first happened would have done the trick.

do you mean by single sided as single disc brake? also is floating caliper the type which doesn't have pad pins? If those assumptions are right, yes that's what i have

By the way, where would i need to apply copper grease in case it happens in the future? They bought a caliper rebuild kit whatever that may be...

Floating calipers are ones that slide on (normally) two pins that protrude from a section that bolts onto the forks - sorry for cr@p description.

These pins insert into corresponding holes within the caliper, with rubber boots, and require greasing to ensure the caliper moves as required. However I believe you should only use red rubber grease on these and not copper slip.