What's different on the L1 from the 'K' bikes?

Ta

Almost nothing. It's just the paint. Of course, you must remember there are two models of the 400 Burgman currently. The standard version, and the 'z abs' version or 'Limited' as it says on the badge. These have both been on sale since 2010 I think. Someone with a bit more knowledge will no doubt confirm that for you. Both versions are good, but the Limited version now costs quite a bit at about £6,400 or something. I think it is still very good value for the bike and it's near perfect pedigree, reliability, features and useability. I bought the Limited version as I wanted the abs and heated grips with the hand guards, black wheels etc. Speccing up a standard model costs more to do so it made sense to buy the one I wanted outright.

Quick edit: Just one point, it does to some extent depend on what model 'K' you are looking at and comparing. From 2007 the Burgman 400 was redesigned and given a tad more power. The clutch was a very slight issue on the first redesigns with some judder and squeal on some. The clutch was redesigned twice I understand. But this is not really an issue now if you service her correctly. So don't worry about that. I cannot think of anything else you need to be aware of.

Z versions
Until 2010 the "ZA" models were limited editions of about 20 to 50 each year (ABS, handgaurds, "walnut" dash, passenger backrest etc.) in the UK
Since 2010 the model has gone a bit more mainstream, presumably because ABS will become mandatory soon in the EU and tends to be called "Z" or "ABS" rather than "ZA".

K* and L* models
K7 and L1 are codes for the year model, letter for the decade, number for the year
So K7=2007, L0= 2000, L1 = 2011

AS Data says, there was a big change in 2007 (K7), different body and new DOHC engine.
K7 and later are better bikes all round, more horsepower, don't use oil at high speed, twin front discs
A K6 is very different to a K7

There is very little difference between a K7 and an L1,
improvements to the clutch...K8 onward
air intake to the CVT has been changed 3 times (front, back, then snorkel from K9 on - nothing conclusive on which is best yet).

I bought a new 2010 ZA and the clutch "grabbed" like crazy. Lost patience with it and got rid. Shopped around and found a std. 2010 which proved to have a perfect clutch (extensive test ride) which I have put 10,000 miles on in 8 months without issue. In other words, I think this clutch business is a pure lottery.

Geoff.

Bluebottle wrote:
K* and L* models
K7 and L1 are codes for the year model, letter for the decade, number for the year
So K7=2007, L0= 2000, L1 = 2011

Just for clarity, Typo - L0=2010

oops!