My Berg came with a pair of Oxford heated grips and they are excellent. the only problem is the dealer wired them directly to the battery so you have to remember to turn them off when you stop. Has anyone got any hints and tips as to where I can connect the live supply into a switched live supply?

What version of Oxford Heated grips have they fitted?
The latest ones are designed to be connected to the Battery direct.
There is a Voltage Regulator built-in that turns the Grips off when the voltage drops below a certain level.
So once you switch the bike off the grips are off even if left switched on

Andy

I had the "latest"version wired to the battery on my Bonneville and found their "low voltage cut out" useless as by the time the voltage dropped enough to switch off the grips it was too low to start the bike (the Bonneville is particularly sensitive in this area) after speaking with very experienced bike tech wired them to stop lamp switch feed, no further problems.

Geoff.

Yep, all heated grips should still be relayed. Feed the coil from the brake light feed. The low voltage cut is too low to allow starting on most bikes. You can't even bump start a lot of bikes now as you need power just for the ecu. Scooters/dct can't be bumped either.

Never had a problem when I fitted them to a Honda Dullville 700
The voltage cutoff worked perfectly

Andy

I can vouch that the voltage drops too low to start the Berg luckily I left mine on overnight so I could recharge the battery, had I been at work it would have been an RAC call out. That's a disadvantage not being able to bumps start an auto but a 400 single would be hard work with gears!

I was looking at the Haynes manual and the starter relay is situated in the top right hand panel under the screen cover, looks like a good place to splice into a switched live and will be protected by the 30A fuse, although I think there is an inline fuse fitted on the live supply supplied by Oxford.

There is a connector for grips but it is right up on under the dash on the right hand side, it's white and you can just see it from under the front of the scoot,
but it is only wired through the same fuse as the horn live so it's easier to put a piggy back connector on the live at the horn and a earth on one of the bolts
it is then switched by the ignition mine as worked fine for over 3 years and 16000 miles.

Ralph, thanks for that one sounds an easy fix, any ideas on where to get the connectors, I would prefer ones with solder connections.