Maxsym 600 review and burgman 400 comparison

[Rocketman122]

actually belt specs by websites show the dayco at 30.17mm 1.188in so it should be ok.

[Data]

Rocketman, no don't use sheet metal. If you do it will wear away and/or compress fairly quickly. It has to be through hardened high carbon steel or equivalent. You should be able to find what you want online at any good engineering fixing supplier. They show sizes and specs on their sites. You may need to buy a minimum quantity though.

Regarding PTFE, of course it's up to you and I too use Wurth, but honestly, I definitely wouldn't use it in any variator. Definitely not recommended by manufacturers. There is no need due to the self lubricating properties of the rollers and variator cage. Absolutely no added lube needed. Just make sure it's ultra clean at assembly and it will work just fine. Bare in mind there is tremendous centrifugal and other mechanical forces exerted on the rollers and this is why they must be self lubricating. In that setting no lube wet or dry stays in place enough to do any good, but it can cause issues. In the workshop we used to get cvt's in with all sorts of lube that had been added by owners who thought it would work better lubricated. If it does it doesn't last and always causes problems, and that included dry lubes too.

[Rocketman122]

alright sounds good. the problem is the variator changed color and become super dry after cleaning. kind of like a chalkboard without chalk on it.

I used an oven degreaser which I think ate at the metal. usually I just clean with petrol or brake cleaner then wipe with acetone when assembling. but I didnt have anything with me. didnt think ahead.

that russian guy Nikolay, showed him using it. it seems to make a huge difference. everything is super smooth. I also open the cvt often in between service intervals to keep it clean and check up on it. also to deglaze the pads and bell.

[Data]

Ok, so I would seriously recommend replacing the variator if it's roller surface is even slightly damaged. The ramp plate to if it is also damaged. This is because it will wear out the rollers much faster in its present state. It will also collect dust & cause sticking of the rollers.

You probably know, the rollers both slide under acceleration and also roll at the point of power equilibrium. If they start to stick you'll get trouble. Ok, so it's one thing to keep opening up the tranny but you really shouldn't keep opening the variator on a regular basis. In reality, if the bike is being ridden right with enough power on take off, the variator will look after itself and shouldn't need touching for considerable mileages. Constantly undoing and re-torquing the variator nut will drastically reduce the life of the crankshaft threads, quite possibly ending the life of the bike. Just saying.

[Rocketman122]

I understand, but this bikes cvt design is flawed. I swapped so many parts in the cvt already. unnecessarily because I thought there were something wrong with why the belt was touching the crankcase. one belt ripping on me on highway with a huge tow fee.

changed clutch springs changed contra spring, boss pin, variator cup. 4 seals 2 orings luckily bearings are still ok. once ill try the dayco belt and see it runs well, ill feel more calm and less stressed to get stuck at the side of the road. I welded a variator holder tool with 1" square tubing, and carry a spare belt with me.

fingers crossed the dayco will do its job and give me peace of mind.

next is to repair the fork seal leak. in the service manual there is no mention on it at all. and no mention on fork weight to use. though sym service center manager said 15w or 20w. first time for everything. btw, you familiar with Delboy's Garage videos? I like that guy.

[Rocketman122]

got the dayco belt. hp3001.

it measured 2cm less on external circumference. seems the same angle and grooves. the outside face doesnt have v grooves. measured it on different areas on belt. less than 1 mm difference (between 29.51 to 29.88mm) than oem belt (28.8mmwidth) didnt press hard. just a little wiggle to get a final adjustment.

in the video he measured 30.4mm. I check it with vernier edges almost parallel to belt. not perpendicular. to belt. also gave it slight wiggle adjustment. wiped inside edges before measurement. dayco specs say 30.176mm

Ill also check sliders and if its time to order a new pair. these have done 13000miles.. sliding pieces are pretty new though.

[Data]

I understand, but this bikes cvt design is flawed. I swapped so many parts in the cvt already. unnecessarily because I thought there were something wrong with why the belt was touching the crankcase. one belt ripping on me on highway with a huge tow fee.

changed clutch springs changed contra spring, boss pin, variator cup. 4 seals 2 orings luckily bearings are still ok. once ill try the dayco belt and see it runs well, ill feel more calm and less stressed to get stuck at the side of the road. I welded a variator holder tool with 1" square tubing, and carry a spare belt with me.

Yes, I know what you mean regarding the CVT design but actually, it's not bad. It's generally proven to be quite robust with few problems. Issues with belts touching transmission cases are common on all makes of bike running dry CVT. I had this too on my 400 Burgy. It's always wear on the sheaves and/or differences in belt length (even when you buy OEM) that tends to cause this sort of thing. You are not the only owner to rush out & buy lots of new stuff. Sometimes this helps, but mostly this doesn't do much as the belt length is often the main player here. The one thing that does tend to matter is how the bike is ridden. If it's been thrashed you get a lot more wear.

Glad you are progressing. I enjoy your posts.