Not using bike for six months

[Bingo]

Hi Bingo, dropping out the old oil is a pretty straightforward diy job, and refilling is easy as long as you stick to the right oil and put the right amount back in the engine. It's easy to overfill if you don't watch out! You only need some basic tools, but don't overtighten the sump plug or you may strip the threads (quite a common thing we used to see in the workshop due to over enthusiastic tightening by owners). Make sure the socket you use on the sump plug is a nice snug fit to avoid chewing up the plug which is made from alloy. You should replace the neoprene 'O' ring seal on the sump plug too but if the bike is only going to be standing I'd leave that until next time. So if you have some diy experience I'd go ahead and do this. There are some videos online showing how to do an oil change on the BV, just do a quick search.

Having said all this you can still elect to leave the old oil in the bike for the next 6 months if you want to, but it's really not the best thing to do for your engine. Some corrosion will take place, it always does in these situations. However, it's unlikely to be a significant amount as your oil is still most likely fairly clean. So if going this route take the bike for a nice long run before you store it away, to evaporate all the water out of the oil. This will minimise the risk from corrosion, althouigh anytime you run your motor you create water some of which goes down into the oil so make sure you ride a good 25-30 miles to get the oil nice and hot. I've major serviced used bikes that we had standing in the showroom for 8-9 months that had already covered umpteen miles on their old oil before we took them in and we sometimes noticed quite severe corrosion to cylinder bores and camshafts due to acid attack. Acid is one of the big killers of engines, especially engines used for shorter trips and where the bikes stand around a lot. After that we changed the way we looked after some showroom bikes by changing out the oil and filter early if they didn't sell quickly. However, much of the damage was happening during the bikes time with their previous owners.

Thanks again.

I found this video on youtube. This guy seems to know the BV350 inside out. The first bit is changing the filter which looks a bit tricky but as you say I maybe dont need to do that bit. The second bit changing the engine oil doesnt look too bad as long as I can find the right size allen key! My neighbour will have one if I dont.



According to the manual the recommended product
eni i-Ride scooter 15W-50
Synthetic-based lubricant for four stroke engines.
JASO MA, MA2 - API SJ - ACEA A3

Which would appear to be this http://enimotorcycle.co.uk/eni-i-ride-s ... ter-15w-50

The trouble is Ive messed up a bit really as it runs out of MOT tomorrow so ill have to do it myself as I wont be able to ride it after today. Doesnt look that complicated and Ive done oil changes before on the little Vision when away abroad etc. Ill give it a good run out today though anyway. Maybe 30 miles or so.

[Symcity]

Really best to remove the oil filler cap when draining the oil

[OneFootInTheGravy]

Hi, something else that hasn't been mentioned. If it is going to be stood a while, I've always been told to make sure the fuel tank is full.

[Bingo]

Another question if you dont mind. Just going to go out this afternoon for 30 miles or so. Should I leave the bike full of fuel or nearly empty when I lay it up? Ill probably be around from time to time to start it but generally it wont be used out on the road for up to six months. I am finding conflicting views on this. Someone told me if its a metal tank fill it or if its a plastic tank drain it.

[MrGrumpy]

Well, I guess a metal tank might start to go rusty if left empy, though I guess it depends on the exact material the tank is made of! The bigger issue is that petrol does deteriorate over time. After a year or so its useless, and will gum up the fuel system as well. I believe the new E10 petrol is even worse at this than the previous E5 petrol.So, my guess is that after 6 months, you'd pretty well have to through it away anyway, so no point in filling your tank.

[MrGrumpy]

PS - that's 'throw it away' - why I wrote 'through' I can't imagine! Senility I supposes.....

[newscooter]

You can always fill the tank and add Stabil or something similar

[Data]

PS - that's 'throw it away' - why I wrote 'through' I can't imagine! Senility I supposes.....

I suffer from this too....!

[Data]

Another question if you dont mind. Just going to go out this afternoon for 30 miles or so. Should I leave the bike full of fuel or nearly empty when I lay it up? Ill probably be around from time to time to start it but generally it wont be used out on the road for up to six months. I am finding conflicting views on this. Someone told me if its a metal tank fill it or if its a plastic tank drain it.

Ok so you can do as suggested and use Stabil or some such additive, but only use it with E5 fuel, not the E10. The E5 will stay fresh and usable for at least 6-12 months without settling out or causing sticky gum issues whereas the E10 doesn't seem to respond so well when stored even when treated with Stabil. If doing this fill the tank completely to the top with E5 to prevent condensation forming in the tank. It's the way to avoid issues. If you drain the tank you can end up damaging the fuel pump as the seals can dry out so I don't recommend doing that. You want the pump to remain submerged in fuel so drainage of the pump doesn't take place over time, thus keeping the seals nice and wet.

On another note. There is considerable confusion and mythology concerning the storing of bikes and from time to time starting it up during storage periodically to "keep the bike and it's motor in good condition"! DO NOT DO THIS! I cannot stress enough that starting the bike up and letting it idle to warm it up is very damaging to the bike's engine. It also runs the battery down, and mostly does not as some think actually charge it up, even if you let it fast idle for a long time. Doing this starting it up thing might make you the owner, feel better, but your poor bike suffers in a number of ways. Your bike does not require starting up if you have stored it properly.

Firstly, starting it up at anytime from cold creates a disproportionate amount of engine wear for the first few minutes if left to idle, especially to the cylinder bores, pistons and rings. But every part of the motor suffers. The ignition and fuel injection system is running full advance and injecting large amounts of neat petrol into the cylinders. Much of this remains unburned when the motor is cold and idling with no load on the motor. It washes down past the piston rings washing away the oil from the bores and pistons, and as a solvent (which petrol is) it's very effective at doing this meaning you are getting a disproportionate amount of metaL to metal contact between piston, rings and cylinder bores. This causes scratching to the rings and bores and carbon particulates help cause this, also lodging in the ring lands and generally doing no good.

Secondly, for every gallon of petrol you burn you create a gallon of water. It's just a law of physics. Every firing cycle of the motor produces water equivalent to the amount of petrol burned. When the engine is cold much of this water is forced down with unburned petrol past the piston rings and into the sump where it remains until you ride the bike again long enough to heat the oil fully up to temperature, and keep it there to evaporate the water from the oil. It usually means riding lots of miles to get this water evaporated once the motor is hot. So, if you run the engine during storage and not ride it the water in the oil mixes with the unburned petrol and other hydrocarbons and turns to sulphuric acid after 3-4 days and starts to eat your motor from the inside. Virtually no part of the motor is exempt from this acid damage and even with good oil in the motor, the damage can still happen. I've seen cylinder barrels, pistons, camshafts, shell bearings, roller bearings all damaged and engine cases eaten right through on bikes that have been stored or used for short trips all their lives. Even crankshafts are not immune to this damage.

So don't start it up. The bike doesn't need to be started anytime until you are ready to go back on the road. This is why it's good to change out the oil for good stuff before storage and then run the bike engine by riding it a few miles to get it hot before storing it. The golden rule is: if you start it, ride it! OR of course, you can do your own thing whatever that is! It's good to see someone taking the time to do some research on this subject. Good luck Bingo.

[Bingo]

Thanks for that. The petrol is now quite low. I never bothered to fill it in the end as I think its a plastic tank not metal and I thought what I might be able to do is just top it up with Fresh when I Was ready to use it again from a couple of 5l cans. I use the RON 95 I think it is but are they not all E10 now?

I think I misunderstood about taking it for a long ride before storing it. I see now you mean after changing the oil. MOT runs out at midnight tomorrow and I wont have time (or the oil) to do it before then. I was going to do it next week but then I now wont be able to ride it (legally) after I change the oil. Does that make the process pointless then?

Great advice about not running the bike without riding off on it. Thanks for that. I did wonder. Its the same with my diesel motorhome. They get stored for a while and a lot of people think its a good idea to turn them over. Its not. I do tend to start the bike up and run it for a few minutes before riding off on it though but thats generally me faffing on getting my gear on.