Honda NC750X DCT Service Cost

[Dave Weller]

Data, the valve tappets are readily available after removing radiator, screw and locknuts to adjust them if necessary, usually they don't need adjusting.
The NC750 is one of the best DIY servicable bikes and most items can be left until work is needed in that area.
I think you may be confused with the CB500 range of bikes.

[mottza]

The 12v socket has failed. Going to look at what's up. Might redo it as an internal socket

[Dave Weller]

Could be the in line fuse, near battery.

[Data]

Data, the valve tappets are readily available after removing radiator, screw and locknuts to adjust them if necessary, usually they don't need adjusting.
The NC750 is one of the best DIY servicable bikes and most items can be left until work is needed in that area.
I think you may be confused with the CB500 range of bikes.

Thanks Dave & Chris. No I'm not confused. I just haven't ever tackled an NC & was assuming it had bucket and shim valve adjustment. In that case £601 at a main dealer for a service is a bit high, but probably not by much.

[Funkycowie]

Did all my servicing this weekend, oil change with both filters (£65), coolant check and top up, cleaned up the outside of the cat and pipes with x10 Harpic and gave it a metal polish, done all the checks, took the wheels off and regreased, thought about the rear suspension joints but only went as far as greasing the outside, greased the side stand, sent some oil down the throttle cable, greased the brake lever, checked brake fluid (no top up required and nice and clear just like new after 6 years), cleaned the chain, washed the bike, dried the chain, waxed the chain, adjusted the chain. Then went for a rest and a shower because bugger me it was hot an sweaty work. 12 hours and about £75 all in.

[Data]

That's a good job done Peter. Well done.

The only thing I would say is concerning the brake fluid. If it hasn't been changed in six years then it will be well below par. It isn't just the moisture thing that we worry about, it's the dirt in the fluid too. You said it looked clear but I can tell you that if you did a bf change you'd notice a big difference in colour and brake feel, guarantee it. It's really easy and cheap to do too, no special equipment needed either. The most important bf change is the first one at two years, regardless of the moisture content. The reason is there is usually quite a lot of dirt from calipers and includes paint and brake line debris that comes out of the system. If you don't get rid of that it rapidly wears out the seals and pistons. I normally change mine at the two year point, then test for moisture (brake fluid test strips available online) at the next two year interval and if it's fine I leave it until the 3rd year before changing. Don't forget brake fluid breaks down with time too and your life depends on it. Not dissing you...but just take care with that as it's easy to drop yourself in it, in a panic situation.

[Funkycowie]

The brakes are almost a little too good, they are very solid, I will probably get around to it before the end of the year as I have a new bottle waiting for me to do it and I don't want it to be a wasted purchase. I too normally change every 2 years but what with not being able to ride for a year due to a seizure not long after buying it then not riding it due to covid restrictions, I kinda lost my frequent servicing buzz and am trying to get it back.

[Funkycowie]

That's a good job done Peter. Well done.

The only thing I would say is concerning the brake fluid. If it hasn't been changed in six years then it will be well below par. It isn't just the moisture thing that we worry about, it's the dirt in the fluid too. You said it looked clear but I can tell you that if you did a bf change you'd notice a big difference in colour and brake feel, guarantee it. It's really easy and cheap to do too, no special equipment needed either. The most important bf change is the first one at two years, regardless of the moisture content. The reason is there is usually quite a lot of dirt from calipers and includes paint and brake line debris that comes out of the system. If you don't get rid of that it rapidly wears out the seals and pistons. I normally change mine at the two year point, then test for moisture (brake fluid test strips available online) at the next two year interval and if it's fine I leave it until the 3rd year before changing. Don't forget brake fluid breaks down with time too and your life depends on it. Not dissing you...but just take care with that as it's easy to drop yourself in it, in a panic situation.

You'll be pleased to know I did the brake fluid change as it came up as a MOT advisory, they said the fluid was cloudy... yet when I popped open the front and rear they both look clear and perfect... I still bled a few hundred mm through both just in case I was imagining it, still looks the same.

[Data]

That's a good job done Peter. Well done.

The only thing I would say is concerning the brake fluid. If it hasn't been changed in six years then it will be well below par. It isn't just the moisture thing that we worry about, it's the dirt in the fluid too. You said it looked clear but I can tell you that if you did a bf change you'd notice a big difference in colour and brake feel, guarantee it. It's really easy and cheap to do too, no special equipment needed either. The most important bf change is the first one at two years, regardless of the moisture content. The reason is there is usually quite a lot of dirt from calipers and includes paint and brake line debris that comes out of the system. If you don't get rid of that it rapidly wears out the seals and pistons. I normally change mine at the two year point, then test for moisture (brake fluid test strips available online) at the next two year interval and if it's fine I leave it until the 3rd year before changing. Don't forget brake fluid breaks down with time too and your life depends on it. Not dissing you...but just take care with that as it's easy to drop yourself in it, in a panic situation.

You'll be pleased to know I did the brake fluid change as it came up as a MOT advisory, they said the fluid was cloudy... yet when I popped open the front and rear they both look clear and perfect... I still bled a few hundred mm through both just in case I was imagining it, still looks the same.

Excellent Peter. Well done!

[roadster]

This reflects the complexity of modern bike design in terms of packaging. Cars are now cheaper to service than bikes. Even my run-of-the-mill Honda CB300R needs the fuel tank cover lifting to get to the battery and a lot more spanner work to actually remove side panels and the fuel tank.

I would also argue that the skill levels required to work on a bike are higher than for routine work on a car. From a commercial stand-point there is little competition from a now streamlined and smaller dealer network, and spare parts and consumables supplied via main dealers are priced at monopoly levels. This leads to a vicious circle as customers go elsewhere or rely on DIY thus diminishing dealer technical staffing levels.