Help Fault codes

[The Artful Bodger]

Hi All, some b####### cut my front ABS wire on my 2020 400 Burger when it was parked at work. I left work (1 am) and had the ABS light on and the speedo didn't work, then after 5 miles or so the engine warning light came on and a F1 code flashed up. I didn't find the cut wire until the next day, soldered it back together now ABS and speedo are fine but still have F1 flashing up and engine light on.
Put it in dealer mode a C65 code came up "out of range idle speed," she's riding fine and ticking over as normal. How do I get rid of the F1 code and put the engine light out??
Hopefully someone out there can help please.
I changed the tyres on it when I bought it a year ago, the original " factory fitted " tyres are about half worn, if anyone wants them for free collected from CM16 6DD post code you're welcome to them
Cheers
Colin

[Andym]

The ABS sensor won't like the solder. It's inductive so sensitive to external influences. Better to replace it. I assume it was vandalised near the wheel, so no chance there is also damage to the engine sensor or TPD connections?

Is the speedo coming to zero when still moving? Could the engine ECU think it's doing zero mph when it isn't? Never met this but there doesn't seem to be any other connection.

I'd use an OBD tool to try and simply clear it (not hugely familiar with Burgervan's so not sure about access). There is also the "Vauxhall reset". Remove the battery, drink tea, replace, see if it's changed it's tune. The built in diagnostics can be very list-like and once woken up might show you stuff from ages ago.

Andy

[The Artful Bodger]

Thanks for the reply Andy, everything is working as it should except for the warning light and code flashing up. My son's just bought an OBD reader and has ordered the lead to allow it to plug into the Burger, fingers crossed it will do the job!

Colin

[The Artful Bodger]

Just an update in case it helps anyone. We had no luck with the OBD reader, it didn't reconise the bike at all. After much searching on the net I eventually found a post that said although the OBD wiring for cars was standard accross the board it wasn't for bikes. So I bought another adapter lead for the OBD and another OBD "for bikes" . Using the original adapter lead the new OBD didn't work but with the new lead it worked fine and cleared the fault code. Conclusion, the first adapter lead was wired wrong for the Burgman. The second one was listed for Suzuki bikes, scooters and ATV's. I haven't tried my son's OBD reader with the new lead but can't see why it wouldn't work as the adapter lead was the problem.
It's been a while since I sorted it all out and everything has been fine.
Colin

[Andym]

OBD-2 is a US consumer requirement for cars. The EU don't/won't support it, "for your safety"/ because German car makers buy commissioners. The result is that a Toyota Corolla has everything available, a BMW will have every block, firewall, and dirty trick they can invent to force you to buy said "safety" from them.

The actual connection is an SAE J1939 CANBUS , so 4 wires, power, earth, hi, lo. The first trick the Euro block will try is moving the CAN wires in the plug. Your basic Honda motorcycle has just the 4 so an adapter is needed to get those onto pins 4,5, 15, 14 and 6 on the OBD. Next they'll use obsolete tech like SAE J1850, ISO 157565 or even analogue K&L comms. The Americans knew about this and pins are available on the reader. Finally they can hide behind overblown interpretations of UN R155/R156 and lock the ECU. Basically password protect it. It's simple stuff but you need to find the right hacker, hence the GS911 too defeats Bavarian code, GuzziDiag beats the Alphabetti Spaghetti.

Unfortunately no one outside Tennessee has ever walked out of a Ducati showroom over this, even the California lawyers who fixed the US did if for the money. If it bothers you and you need to be able to work on them at home it's a case of research. Japanese bike adapters generally work. For weird $#1t it's better to find the specialists who've done the work. There is work involved, so expect to pay. There is money in doing the work so spivs, charletons and the Chinese will add cheap rubbish into the mix.

Ultimately, if you bought something weird the cheapest option is to just accept the dealer has to be able to fix it. If you did buy a two year out of warranty, weird whatever and the dealer shut up shop and ran away when the first one failed you might not be in a good place. Finding fellow sufferers helps.

Andy